GLAREUM.NET›Chapter 8›Garden paths

8.1 Loose gravel path

Loose stones raked over a firm, compacted base. Cheap, quick and it lets rain through, but the stones move underfoot: not for wheelchairs, pushchairs or slopes.

Cross-section of a loose gravel path: a thin layer of loose stones on a compacted binding layer, on a crushed stone base, between edging boards. 3 Loose top 1–2 stones deep · 4–8 / 8–16 2 Binding layer 30–50 mm · 0–8 mm 1 Base 100 mm · 0–32 mm Undisturbed soil
Cross-section. The loose top is thin; the firm layers under it carry the feet.
A loose gravel path held in by a steel edge.
A loose gravel path held in by a steel edge. Illustration

At a glance

Difficulty
2 of 4
Time
1 day for 10 m of path
Tools
Spade, wheelbarrow, rake, plate compactor or hand tamper, string line, carpenter's level
Parts
  1. 1  Base
  2. 2  Binding layer
  3. 3  Loose top

What you need per m²

MaterialSizeTypeAmount
Base 0–32 mm Crushed, with fines, 100 mm (3.1) 230 kg
Binding layer 0–8 mm Crushed, with fines, 40 mm 90 kg
Loose top 4–8 or 8–16 mm Washed, crushed or rounded, one or two stones deep 16 kg per 10 mm deep
Geotextile – Non-woven, on soft or wet ground 1 m² + overlaps

Why crushed or rounded on top?

4–8 mm rounded

Pea gravel. Soft-looking and smooth underfoot, but round stones roll on each other: they scatter, form waves and sink under a wheel. Keep it to paths you only walk on.

8–16 mm crushed

Angular stones lock against each other a little (1.2), so they stay put better on a gentle slope and travel less onto the lawn. Neither size makes a path firm enough for wheelchairs: for that, leave out the loose top (8.2).

Step by step

  1. 1

    Mark out and dig out the path.

    Dig to the depth of all three layers, about 140 mm plus the loose top, and a little wider than the path. Take off all topsoil. Plan for the finished top to sit just above the ground beside it, so water runs off.

    The dug-out bed
  2. 2

    Set the edging.

    Loose stones need a fixed edge, or they wander into the lawn and beds. Set it to the string line before the base goes in (8.5).

    Edging set to the line
  3. 3

    Lay a geotextile on soft or wet ground.

    If your heel sinks into the bottom of the dig, lay a non-woven geotextile over the whole bed, up the sides to the edging. It keeps the soil and the stone apart.

    Geotextile in the bed
    Geotextile in the bed Illustration
  4. 4

    Lay and compact the base.

    Build 100 mm of 0–32 crushed stone as for a patio path (3.1), with a fall of about 2 % to one side or a slight crown.

    Compacting the base
    Compacting the base Illustration
  5. 5

    Add a binding layer and compact it.

    Spread 30–50 mm of damp 0–8 crushed stone with fines and compact it hard. This firm layer is what you walk on; the loose stones only cover it.

    The compacted binding layer
  6. 6

    Spread the loose top thinly.

    Rake it out to about one or two stones deep, no more. Thick loose gravel is hard to walk on and to push a barrow through.

    Raking the loose top
  7. 7

    Keep it in shape.

    Rake stones back from the edges and the lawn. Top up with the same stone after a few years.

    Raking back
Specifications
PartSieve sizeThicknessHow
1 Base0–32 mm100 mmCrushed with fines, compacted (3.1). Scottish path guidance: at least 100 mm.
2 Binding layer0–8 mm30–50 mmCrushed with fines, damp, compacted. Danish park guidance: 3–5 cm under loose stones.
3 Loose top4–8 mm / 8–16 mm1–2 stones deepRaked, not compacted.
Fall–about 2 %To one side or both (crown).

The binding layer

Danish guidance for the gravel paths of royal and public gardens describes a loose layer of small stones laid over a 3–5 cm layer of gravel or stone dust. Without a firm layer under it, loose gravel shifts down into the base and the path goes soft.

Geotextile

A US conservation standard puts a geotextile under all gravel trails and walkways. Path guidance from Scotland says light-use paths on well-drained, firm ground usually do not need one, and suggests a heel test of the ground. The geotextile separates soft soil from the stone above it.

Sources

  1. UK Government (MHCLG and Environment Agency), Guidance on the permeable surfacing of front gardens (2009): loose gravel is “Simple to construct and maintain” and cheap, but “Gravel will scatter or form waves”, it is “Not suitable on steeply sloping drives” and “Not suitable for wheel-chairs”; a geotextile at the base of the construction
  2. Danish Palaces and Properties Agency (Slots- og Ejendomsstyrelsen) with the University of Copenhagen, Opbygning af befæstelser: gravel paths in Frederiksberg Have (2003): a loose layer of small round stones over 3–5 cm of gravel or stone dust; loose material shifts and the path goes soft without a firm layer
  3. Scottish Government, Rural Payments and Services: New path, unbound surface (2015): “minimum 100 millimetre depth Type 1 granular sub-base, compacted / rolled”; shape the path to shed water
  4. University of Florida IFAS Extension, Gardening Solutions: walkways in the landscape: “Loose materials like mulch and gravel will need edging”; about 2 % slope to one side for drainage
  5. National Parks Board Singapore (NParks), Gardening resource library: pathways: gravel may need topping up after a few years
  6. USDA Forest Service, Soil stabilizers on universally accessible trails (R. Bergmann, 2000): sand and pea-size gravel are unsuitable for accessible trails; loose coarse rock makes turning a wheelchair difficult
  7. USDA NRCS Vermont, Conservation Practice Standard 575: Trails and walkways (2021): “A geotextile or other approved underlayment shall be designed and installed on all gravel trails and walkways”
  8. Paths for All and Scottish Natural Heritage, Lowland Path Construction Guide (2019): light-use paths on well-drained, reasonably hard ground usually need no geotextile; field heel test
  9. FHWA-RD-97-148, Granular base: natural aggregates weigh about 2.0–2.3 t/m³ in place
  10. Penn State University, CE 584 concrete course notes: aggregates: aggregate weighs 1,520–1,680 kg/m³

Amounts: compacted base and surface gravel at about 2.3 t per m³, the top of the 2.0–2.3 t/m³ that FHWA gives for natural aggregate in place, so they err on the generous side; loose stone and bedding sand at about 1.6 t/m³ (Penn State course notes give 1,520–1,680 kg/m³ for aggregate). No waste is included; order a little extra. The dig depth is the sum of the layers.

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